Saturday, December 1, 2012

Story #5: Rain


I’ve racked my brains on certain nights on what it truly means to be in a state of poverty. I’ve come to the conclusion that it is so much more complex than I had ever previously imagined. And living in America, I didn’t really imagine anything of it, to be honest. The most I thought about it was the one time I gave the homeless guy outside my apartment in San Francisco some old blankets and comforters during the winter. Even then I think it’s more thought than most? No one really likes to think about something so sad. The blanket thing was a quick fix to make me feel good about myself. Finally this cold homeless dude can sleep warm just for one night. Happy ending. Forget about it the next day when I go to work.

Because I have never lived in a state of poverty I am able to afford this pleasant existential contemplation. I don’t want to sound like I am spiting myself for being privileged, but I guess I am, because it’s hard not to when you’re surrounded by this.  I can do the what-if? pity thing because I haven’t ever experienced starvation or being seriously ill but resisting going to the old busted hospital clinic because I can’t afford tylenol.

I keep looking at my neighbors’ lives and comparing it to mine. “What is it that I have that they don’t?”  It bothers me when I come to the harsh conclusion that I have a whole lot more than they do. I hate discriminating against people. I hate making people feel like they are beneath others. But the fact that I was born where I was, just by birthright, has given me so many more opportunities. Why is that? It’s not fair

The other day, the old owner of one of my current dogs (whom I retrieved from a life and death situation) was stumbling drunk from drinking liters of moonshine in the rain. Her two younger daughters were hanging out in my house with Bota. I’d say they’re about 3 and 10 tops. Both look like little smurfs to me. Not more than three feet tall, both of them. The younger one, Manitra, always comes to my house in her little pigtails and says, “CLUMPF! CLEMPF!” and giggles and runs away because she can’t say my name right.

I’ve never been a big fan of their mother ever since I saw the way she treated animals. Needless to say, all the dogs she’s ever had are dead. Not one puppy has made it longer than a month. Her husband usually drunkenly bashes their little puppy heads in with a shovel when he’s back in the village (he lives in the capital for work). Anyhow, this lady is usually drunk everyday. She talks gibberish when she’s drunk. She has a bad “reputation”.

It is pouring rain and it’s about 5pm, everyone is home from work and all the kids are playing in my house while their parents prepare dinner (if they have any). She leaves the epicerie, or store, where she’s been drinking heavily and stumbles along the path home. Shortly after making about ten clumsy steps, she falls in the mud and rolls down the hill where people’s cassava fields are. Her clothes are soaked and dirty, and the rain is slamming.

A bunch of kids at this point come running into my room towards the window to watch her in the distance. They start pointing and laughing because she looks like a fool and and is too incoherent to stand up. It’s always a spectacle when a drunk is around, sometimes the kids will slap them in the face and pull on their ears when they’re passed out on some random person’s yard. But this lady was being belligerent to everyone who was trying to help her up.

So finally she sloppily pulls herself up, walks about five feet, and falls on the ground again. The kids start hysterically laughing. Startled, I suddenly look down at Loba, her oldest ten year old daughter. Tears are pouring down her face as she helplessly watches her wasted mother among the sea of laughter and naïve criticism from her less than ten year old counterparts.

I didn’t really know what to do, so I scolded all the kids and kicked them out of my house except for Loba, her younger sister, Bota, and their cousin, Rija. I picked Loba up and just held her close to my heart. She seemed relieved to have someone hold her so she held onto me too. I told Rija to take the two girls home, they didn’t need to see their mom like this anymore. He said no they’ll probably sleep with his family tonight. Their mom can be unpredictable when she’s been drinking, he explains.

I’ve learned that you must pick and choose which projects would most likely be sustainable. It takes a lot of money, work, and communication to get things running correctly. And even with those variables accounted for, things still manage to fall apart.

The reality is there will most likely be no one who will help Loba in her lifetime. I know I won’t. It is impossible to help her and change her life given the context of her toxic family and the limited physical and social infrastructure in Madagascar.

So like I said I’ve racked my brain over and over mulling on what poverty is. I don’t know what the textbook definition is, but children like her, though they break your heart, are the face of it. 

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Story #4: Aller-Retour


I’ve tried to write, but on those rare occasions where something has inspired me to write, I’ve felt unable to translate my thoughts into clear English sentences suitable for presentation. By the time I’d start editing, I’d have already thought to myself, “What the hell? This sucks”. So, on those rare inspired moments, I have resulted to just old fashioned processing whatever it is that just moved me in my lil ol’ brizzain. I’ll probably regret not sharing as things happen, since I’ve forgotten it all by now, but eh whatever, life goes on.

Well, since last time we convened, I’ve been home to California, for a wonderful three week vacation. The first time I’ve been in the states since I first got on the plane 18 months ago. At that point in September, I had built up the image of America in my brain to be close to god-like status, even coining it “The Promised Land.” As we all know reality and fantasy seldom agree and I was instantly plunged into the cold hard truths of rush hour Bay Area, California traffic. Somehow, every plan with each friend I had made required me to drive during rush hour, which totally reminded me that THIS aspect of American culture sucks. I even felt like I was driving home to the city after work like I did before Peace Corps. 

It’s funny, the road rage came back instantaneously as well. Within minutes of driving for the first time and changing the radio in typical ADD fashion, I found myself swearing under my breath Use your $%#% SIGNALS lady. Old habits die hard.

What wasn’t cool was one of the foods I was really looking forward to eating, potato wedges at Jack in the Box, was discontinued. What gives Jack?

The amazing and not amazing thing about being back was that I was right back into my roles and interactions that I had left off back in 2010 with the people in my life. It was amazing because I could slip into anonymity and not have every little thing be observed by everyone in the public. It was not amazing because with some people I felt like the distance had grown too much from my time away.

In general, especially during the beginning of being home, I didn’t really feel like I was home, more like a tourist in my own house, amongst my friends, within my own life even. I felt like I was taking a tour of Cliff in America in 2010 and thinking distractedly wow, I wonder how Snoopy’s doing right now, etc. Grass is greener syndrome probably.

What I appreciated the most was with those family members and friends that I was able to have genuine updates with about where I’ve been and vice versa. I realized those were relationships to hold onto.

On many occasions, I also felt my own brain comparing everything about American culture with Malagasy culture. Only with a select few did I find the comfortable space to dive into how completely different Madagascar is from Silicon Valley California.  On most occasions, I felt myself actively disregarding talks and thoughts about Madagascar due to it being completely out of context juxtaposed to every aspect of American life. 

I mean who wants to sound arrogant and depressing when you’re having a fifty dollar welcome home dinner for you by explaining how this is sad because it is more than a year’s salary for some people in my village. Embarrassingly, I almost shed a tear at one of my favorite sushi restaurants when I saw the price increase by three dollars for a 10 piece dish of sashimi. My usual self would probably have impulsively chose the 28 piece cause who cares I deserve it if I'm on vacation right bitches. But something was off.

Yeah...
 
Also, I also felt the pressure coming from the outside of what I was going to do next.

Are you gonna go home?
Are you going back to the office?
Are you going to be productive member of American society again…It’s been two years?
When is this little tour of poverty going to end?

But I genuinely feel like what I’m doing is so much realer now than everything I’ve done before. Yeah, I don’t have a real salary and benefits like I did, and I’m not actively planning for the future, but I really refuse to belittle how rewarding this job has been for me on every human level imaginable. Not to say that this job has been roses all the time, but it is true…this has been a completely seminal experience. 

Not many people ever get to experience this in their lifetimes. Although life here is foreign compared to life in the states, it’s become normal for me. I feel like I’m toggling between two homes. And I do feel like a very productive member of American society here, even more so than before. It’s definitely made me more patriotic. How much more American can you get? 

I feel like my time here is concretely significant, and more so than any comparable time in the states before. I love knowing and learning about this country. I love my little at-times disfunctional community here. I love it how they don't bother me if its before 9am, an ungodly hour to wake up at this time for any normal Malagasy, but because its me and we work for each other, they laugh and respect that the foreigner just cant and wont do mornings. My neighbors will explain to people "Oh Cliff doesn't wake up in the morning. You can wait until 9:30. He should be up by then." ... at like 6 AM. Haha. That's love I think.

On a completely superficial level, the Peace Corps is giving me experience that will make me completely badass when I’m back.

But

It is true what they say that you can slip into being abroad forever. I realize this will end. I do want to go home at some point. I admit, everyone at the end of their service asks themselves what’s next?

And the answer to that question is: I don’t know... and I like that.

Outtie.

Monday, April 30, 2012

Story #3 - Beef Jerky

Yesterday I opened up my Pacific Coast Brand bag of original flavored beef jerky from Costco and shoved a huge piece into my face cause I was really hungry and raw vegetables like stupid carrots and heaping plates of bland and extremely boring rice plates weren't cutting it for me anymore. Seriously, my junk food cravings here rival the cravings of fat, diabetic, pregnant woman I imagine because I have these serious longings for silky velvety fake snack bar melted cheese and salted pretzels; greasy oily unknown beef? pork? hoof meet? double quarter pounder patties from McDonald's, yummy teriyaki glazed yakitori chicken skewers smoked to a delicate crisp tenderly flaking off as it melts in my mouth type of cravings. It's weird?

Whatever, so I started coughing and then realized that the beef jerky had a dry, starchy, disgusting odor to it. "That's funny. Why isn't this delicious like normal?" I thought to myself.  And yet it probably took about a couple minutes until I accepted the harsh reality that it probably wasn't a good idea for me to keep chewing since I might be eating some kind of bubonic plague and kill myself.

My eyes glanced suspiciously at the beef jerky bag on my table. It couldn't be rotten by now, I just got this I thought. I've been diligent zipping up the awesome, made in America, resealable bag... That coupled with the fact that the little plastic sack of poison which preserves my beef was still in tact meant that my beautiful beef jerky should be completely safe from any dangerous airborn Malagasy microbes. 

However, on closer inspection I realized that the remaining slabs of jerky in the bag had turned green and been attacked by mold and fungi which had ravenously attached their parasitic little roots all over my helpless filets of dried happiness. Horrified, I spit whatever was in my mouth out the window and rinsed my mouth until I was sure I had gotten everything out. Yuck I actually ate a thimble sized amount of that shit. Instantly I thought oh fucking great I'm about to get some other major worm infestation in my intestines which will devour me inside out.

While all this drama and internal dialogue was happening in my head, my little bandits (as I lovingly refer to them), LePop, Eric, and Sariaka,  were staring at me in horror. They immediately sensed what I was about to do before I even did it. They knew that I was about to grab the almost full bag of rotting beef and toss that nasty moldy shit into the garbage. Which sparked a desperate intervention on their part.

Immediately, LePop, a quick witted jokester kinda type, barked at me, "Noooo Cliff! Don't throw it away! Give it to me!" I almost didnt want to believe that he actually wanted to eat this dirty shit so I refused. I also told him I forbid him from picking it up from the trash and eating it. Which made me feel like a major asshole because at that moment I had an epiphany at how poor these kids really are. Inside my heart was kind of sinking as I forget that these kids live not even from paycheck to paycheck, but from one cup of rice to the next. This nasty rotting beef jerky still had value to them.
Anyhow, I ended up throwing the beef jerky into the latrine hole after asking my downstair's neighbor if boiling the meat would actually kill all the mold, which she replied...Absolutely not. I wanted to be sure it was 100% inedible.

I went over to LePop's house afterwards and saw that him and two of his brothers were sharing one cup of rice to eat for dinner. So I gave them an egg.

Sometimes I forget why Peace Corps operates in this country because these neighbors are just fun people who live close to me. They joke, they smile, they pet Snoopy. It doesn't seem like I'm living in the Sahel. But then the occasional reality check.

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Nine Stories

Well, it's been a while... I haven't written since November. Three months. I'm going to post nine stories in honor of Salinger just to recap. I don't know why I'm honoring him since I haven't read any books like I thought I would since I've been here. Just think the idea of writing Nine Stories gives me an excuse to be clever without having to edit this blog post and force my brain to write down coherent thoughts in a linear, continuous way in essay writing form.

Story #1: The Holidays
I spent Thanksgiving cooking chicken and mashed potatoes with my site mate on a rainy day. They don't sell chicken in my village so I trekked to my banking town and came back with a kilo and fried those babies up. Quiet, low key, but pretty cool. Christmas I went on a berserk-filled vacation to Diego and Sambava- regions in the North. It was awesome... Kind of. I realized I was going on a huge vacation to escape the fact that I was going to be away from my family and how terrible that was for me. I only have to do that one more time next year and I plan to stay at site, just to spend the major holidays with my Malagasy "family" since it might possibly be the last year I will ever have that opportunity (my service ends May 2013).

Story #2: Bota
This kid in my part of town got in a fight back in December. He's one of the kids that goes and plays in my house the second I wake up and open the doors. They go in clean my stuff, put on my sunglasses, and act like rich hip hop stars and run around and fight each other while I nap or eat my breakfast. One day him and his friend Eric got in a fight where he kicked Eric in the face and Eric's mom got pissed so her younger sister got all the adults in the neighborhood to chew him out and slap him in the face. I wasn't present when this happened since I was off working or doing something but I came back to all these adults pointing and yelling at him with tears in his face hiding in his house trying to be 'tough' and ward them off.

Normally, I wouldn't have cared that the adults were scolding a prickly kid who's acting a brat because his behavior asked for it. But the problem was his parents pretty much ditched him when he was a baby to go off get a divorce, and become alcoholics. He lives with two older cousins, his very old grandma, and his aunt (the town crazy woman who goes around saying everyone has her money and to give it back) and none of them have income. His crazy aunt actually wants to marry me and asks on a regular basis how many children I have, to which I reply a thousand.

Anyhow, after getting slapped in the face, he was crying and trying to ward off all these adults and I decided that I was going to "build capacity" on this one parentless kid and pay for him to go to school. Not doing anything all day and running around and basically developing deliquent issues every passing idle second of his life was not helping his 11-year old brain. I made a deal with the private FJKM elementary school that I'd substitute his education for a computer donation to which they all agreed. It was his idea that he wanted to go to school, he'd mention it frequently when all the kids were off learning and he was stuck playing all day with the other toddlers who were too young to go to school, so I decided to put him up to it.

You're not really supposed to hand out money as a PCV, but teach your community members how to earn and save money. In general. But unfortunately not everything is so black and white. None of his elders were going to learn anything- one is too old to work, one is too crazy, they barely have money to feed themselves (sometimes Bota skips lunch and lies to me saying that he has food at home.)

So I tried to make the next best sustainable option to help him out. I presented him to the mayors office after securing his elementary school so that if he acted up, he would be responsible to all the important people in the community. Luckily, to this day, he hasn't missed a class and is one of the highest ranking students.

Story #3: Ok this is getting pretty long...I'm in Tana right now and I actually have electricity but I'd rather go get a coffee and a pain au chocolat for breakfast so I'll continue these stories maybe later today or in three months...

P.S. Happy One Year In Madagascar to my stagemates (March 2011) and Tonga Soa Welcome to our new zandry stage (March 2012) who will be arriving in about one week. The hardest and scariest part is leaving and taking that first leap. Any words of advice, not like it will matter to you know, is to focus on spending time with loved ones and not the last minute minutiae. You can have anything sent once you're here. You won't really believe me until you're here though. Feel good in knowing that this is an experience that is going to rock you like a hurricane literally.

Good luck with Pre-Service Training!

Outtie.