It’s funny
what a quick trip home can do. Before I left Madagascar for my “one-month home
leave” I felt without any doubt that staying here for a third year was
exactly where I wanted to be. Back to the processed hustle and bustle of
American Life no way, not for me. I was
surprised to find that I was falling in love with America. Even now I am
reminiscing about my trip home and nostalgically brushing over the rough parts,
turning the shit into gold. How powerful the mind can be as it tries to make
sense of a reality that no longer exists.
Upon closer
inspection, I realized being home was really shocking me. Life as I knew it in
America is a memory. Things that used to elicit great joy in me merely sparked
a faint buzz of complacent recognition. I’m talking serious things that used to
stir my heart: driving with the windows down with my DJ AM mix on Van Ness
through the heart of San Francisco, crossing the Bay Bridge at night and seeing
the whole bridge light up along the edges, or feeling the city buzz with life
looking for a parking spot in the Mission.
This time I
was just thinking damn my AM mix is way outdated, that annoying S-curve is
still here I forgot about that, and WHERE are the hipsters I came here to hate.
They all seem so young and why did I derive pleasure from being such a sinister
grandpa shitting on some 21 year old’s big night out. What kind of asshole does
that? Then I realized it’s happened. Madagascar has made me soft.
Now I’m back
in Madagascar processing everything I’ve seen in the last month and a half…
Comparing and contrasting lifestyles of the rich and famous and the complete
opposite. Sometimes I wonder if I am living on two planets.
The first
week of my vacation my family took a little outing to Waikiki where we sat
poolside at the Hyatt every day and limited our daily activity to how many
times we roll from tummy to back, back to tummy to hit the best angle to optimize
our tans. We’d sprinkle in little shopping trips every hour or so around lunch
and dinner plans. We’d strategize our days by deciding on ‘beach to pool’ or ‘pool
to beach’ ending with spa? root beer floats? Yes/No?
After that I
drove down to Irvine, Suburbia! at its finest to visit my family down there. We
did all the Asian suburban things like explore the latest new Asian snack food,
which I learned was Confetti- a mixture of snow and yogurt. What trip to
suburbia is complete without going to Starbucks at least 100 times and eating
at Panera bread for your cousin’s half hour lunch break, taking advantage of
free Wi-Fi.
When I
passed through LA, I met up with a guy that a friend of a friend’s pointed me
to that owns http://www.SoullyOrganic.com.
If you buy ginger from Whole Foods, you’ve probably bought his ginger from Peru.
Yes, all $8.99/lbs. (It’s currently going for 500 Ariary/kilo here in
Madagascar. About $0.25. Perspective.) His name is Rick and I’d been talking on
email with him on and off throughout my two years here regarding my work with
the ginger cooperative. We were able to set up a time and meet in person.
Which
was the coolest thing!
To see how ginger is done in America compared to a
developing country. It made me really patriotic.
Unfortunately, we or I
realized it would be a hefty undertaking to be able to export produce from my
cooperative to California- mainly because we have no start-up capital. We’d
have to ask for grants to get the Organic certification, packaging, basically
everything.
Which made
me so sad.
It makes me really sad on a deep level to see people who should be
rewarded for their hard work left scouring at the bottom.
At this point my
cooperative, due to lack of income, is dangerously close to becoming null. I
was, however, able to set up a turmeric buy with Rick if certain extraordinary
conditions are met. Just in case you’re wondering, this includes:
- Purchasing and obtaining the organic
certification for the turmeric.
2 - Locating about 1.5 metric tonnes of
turmeric here in Madagascar.
3 - Purchasing and labeling packaging
suited for exporting.
4 - Obtaining a US permit to import
turmeric.
5 - Obtaining a cost-effective, reliable
shipper
So we’ll see
how the story will end. Notice how many times the word purchase pops up on my to-do list. Very depressing. But I know that If I don’t venture into exporting with my cooperative, there
is a high probability that no one ever will. Which makes me so sad for Malagasy
farmers. Im trying so hard to do everything that I can, but the reality is I am
operating in disagreeable conditions. Ok,
antagonistic conditions.
So now I’m back.
I’ve gone
from the excesses of American society to the savage reality of impoverished
Africa. Needless to say my brain is fried! I’m having trouble accepting that
people really live in this reality. I mean I was just eating fondue with my
cousin in Irvine three weeks ago.
Am I in the
Twilight zone… I’m just waiting for the elevator to drop and realize this is a
just a thrill ride at Disneyland that I can get off.
That’s the
whole thing too, I can get off. When I’ve had enough. I can get a real job and
make loads of money. I can move forward with my life and pretend none of this
ever existed in my life.
On my way
here to Moramanga I was on the bus and we passed a bunch of tourists taking
pictures of village kids with their huge cameras and I thought how strange it
was. They were treating the village kids like zoo animals.
Wow, It’s a real life poor African kid. This vacation is amazing!
But the
truth is sometimes I don’t see how I am different from those tourists…
Outtie.
Dedicated to two of my four students
Nandrandraina (Lepapa) and Rija who went from not knowing how to write or hold
a pencil, to skipping three grades and passing the government administered elementary
school graduation test, the CEPE.
Way to go guys, I talk a lot of shit but you kids inspire me everyday. If you ever see this, and I know someday you will, you to me are the real faces of Madagascar and will stay with me long after I've left.
“The future belongs to those who believe in
the beauty of their dreams” –Eleanor Roosevelt
What a trip. I love reading your blogs, Cliff.
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